The Complete Guide for Ama Dablam Expedition
July 5, 2026
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Mount Manaslu, the eighth‑highest mountain in the world at 8,163 metres, stands in the Mansiri Himal of west‑central Nepal. Known as the “Mountain of the Spirit” derived from the Sanskrit word manasa meaning intellect or soul – Manaslu offers a challenging yet achievable objective for mountaineers seeking their first 8,000‑metre summit.
The mountain was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi of Japan and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu. Since then, Manaslu has become widely recognised as the essential technical and physiological stepping‑stone for climbers preparing for Everest or Lhotse. The expedition follows the Northeast Face route, ascending through four high camps before the final push to the summit.
The journey begins with a scenic drive from Kathmandu to Soti Khola, followed by a multi‑day trek through the Budhi Gandaki Valley, immersing climbers in the Tibetan‑Buddhist culture of Sama Gaun. Upon reaching Base Camp at 4,700m, the expedition transitions into high‑altitude rotations between camps, navigating steep snow corridors, crevasses, and exposed ridges. Supplemental oxygen is provided above the high camps as climbers enter the Death Zone.
The Manaslu Expedition is not merely about reaching a summit; it is about testing the limits of human endurance and experiencing the profound beauty of the Himalaya. It is a once‑in‑a‑lifetime journey that demands exceptional preparation but offers rewards that last forever.
Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
UNESCO sightseeing, checking up gear and briefing
Kathmandu to Besishare by Drive -7 hrs
Besishare to Dharapani by Drive - 4 hrs and than trek to Gowa
We trek from Gowa to Bhimthang
We trek from Bhimthang to Samdo via Larke La Pass
We trek from Samdo to Samague
We trek from Samague to Base Camp
From Base Camp we start our rotation (Camp I, Camp II, Camp III, Camp IV and back to Base camp) - Duration - 12 Days
From Base Camp we start our Summit Push (Camp I to Camp III - Summit and Back to Base Camp) - Duration 9 Days
We trek from Base camp to Samague
We take a Heli ride from Samague to Kathmandu
We chill and go for shopping in Kathmandu and a farewell party
Fly back Home
Special Forces Leadership. Veteran Sherpa Experience. One Team. One Mission. One Summit.
At Himalayan Outdoor Project, every expedition is approached as a mission. Founder and Expedition Planner Ex. Special Forces Maj. Rajiv Chand served for more than twenty years in the Nepali Army Special Forces, leading teams in complex and demanding environments where preparation, leadership, teamwork and risk management determined success. That same philosophy now guides every HOP expedition.
Our expeditions combine:
The leadership, planning, discipline and risk‑management systems of Special Forces operations with
The mountain wisdom, resilience and experience of Nepal’s most accomplished climbing Sherpas
This combination creates an expedition environment built on trust, professionalism, teamwork and safety essential ingredients for the immense physical and mental challenge of climbing an 8,000 – metre peak.
PLAN. PREPARE. EXECUTE. RETURN SAFELY.
Successful Manaslu expeditions begin long before arriving at Base Camp – and they end only when every climber is safely home.
PLAN
Every detail matters – Route | Logistics | Weather | Equipment | Contingencies | Emergency response. Nothing is left to chance.
PREPARE
Preparation creates confidence. Every climber receives guidance on: Physical training | Technical skills | Expedition systems | Equipment selection | Nutrition and hydration | Mental preparation for the 8,000‑metre challenge.
EXECUTE
In the mountains conditions constantly change. Our team adapts, communicates and makes informed decisions based on: Weather | Route conditions | Team health | Individual performance | Safety considerations.
RETURN SAFELY
The summit is only halfway. Our objective is simple: Bring every climber home safely. Safety First. Summit Second.
Most expeditions start in Kathmandu. Ours starts months before.
Physical Preparation
Develop the endurance, strength, and resilience required for forty‑five days in the Himalayas and the demands of an 8,000‑metre summit.
Technical Preparation
Build confidence in fixed rope travel, ascender systems, crampon techniques, ladder crossing, glacier travel, and rope management. Manaslu requires proficiency on steep snow corridors and exposed ridges.
Mental Preparation
Manage fatigue, uncertainty, fear, stress, team dynamics, and the psychological demands of high‑altitude climbing.
Our team provides detailed equipment consultation and gear recommendations. Final equipment checks are conducted in Kathmandu.
Our climbing Sherpas are not simply support staff.
They are expedition partners. | Mentors. | Teachers. | Leaders.
Many members of our Sherpa team have multiple Manaslu summits and extensive experience on other 8,000‑metre peaks. Their knowledge of the mountain, weather, terrain, and high‑altitude decision‑making is invaluable. Experience matters.
That is why we work only with highly experienced, government‑certified climbing Sherpas who share our commitment to professionalism and safety.
This expedition is designed for climbers who:
✓ Have previous high‑altitude experience
✓ Have climbed at least one technical peak above 6,000m
✓ Possess excellent physical fitness
✓ Have experience using fixed ropes
✓ Are comfortable in expedition environments
✓ Understand teamwork and expedition commitment
✓ Possess the patience and resilience for a 45‑day expedition
✓ Are prepared for the challenges of an 8,000‑metre summit
Recommended Experience
Previous 6,000m+ climbing experience is strongly recommended
Glacier travel experience
Fixed rope experience
Crampon and ice axe skills
Strong endurance background
Recommended training period: Minimum 12 months
Proper acclimatisation is one of the most important factors in successful Himalayan expeditions.
Our strategy includes:
✓ Gradual ascent through the Budhi Gandaki Valley
✓ Active acclimatisation hikes in Sama Gaun
✓ Multiple acclimatisation rotations – Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Camp III
✓ Planned recovery periods
✓ Continuous health monitoring
Every climber acclimatises differently. The itinerary remains flexible to maximise safety and success.
Manaslu Base Camp (4,700m) becomes home for several weeks.
Facilities include:
✓ Comfortable expedition tents
✓ Dining tent
✓ Kitchen tent
✓ Communication facilities
✓ Charging facilities
✓ Daily weather updates
✓ Team meetings and briefings
✓ Hygienic meals
✓ Rest and recovery facilities
✓ Medical support
✓ Traditional Puja ceremony for good luck and safe passage
Safety is the foundation of every HOP expedition.
Our safety systems include:
✓ Experienced expedition leadership
✓ Veteran climbing Sherpas
✓ High Sherpa‑to‑climber ratio
✓ Daily health monitoring
✓ Supplemental oxygen systems
✓ Satellite communication
✓ Comprehensive medical kits
✓ Professional weather forecasting
✓ Emergency evacuation coordination
✓ Established contingency plans
Permits & Logistics
Manaslu Expedition Permit
Manaslu Conservation Area Permit (MCAP)
Restricted Area Permit (RAP)
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
Chumnubri Rural Municipality Permit
Garbage deposit
Expedition royalties and government taxes
Accommodation & Meals
Kathmandu hotel accommodation
Tea house accommodation during trek
Full board meals during trek and expedition
Base Camp accommodation
Transportation
Airport transfers
Private vehicle (Kathmandu – Soti Khola – Kathmandu)
Expedition cargo transportation
Expedition Support
Expedition leader (Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa)
Veteran climbing Sherpas
Base Camp staff
Porters
Route fixing charges
Group climbing equipment
Training & Additional
Technical and ladder training
Expedition briefings
Welcome and farewell dinners
HOP expedition merchandise
Expedition certificate
International flights
Nepal visa fee
Personal climbing equipment
Personal travel insurance
Emergency evacuation insurance
Personal expenses
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Alcoholic beverages
Personal tips
Additional accommodation due to delays
Costs arising beyond our control
Comprehensive travel and high‑altitude rescue insurance is mandatory.
Coverage must include:
✓ High‑altitude helicopter rescue
✓ Medical treatment
✓ Emergency evacuation
✓ Repatriation
Climbing Manaslu is a serious undertaking. Weather, route conditions, and health issues may require itinerary changes. Flexibility, patience, resilience and teamwork are essential. Manaslu involves technical sections including steep snow corridors, glacier travel and exposed ridges. Climbers must be proficient with fixed ropes, crampons and ice axes.
Our mission is simple:
Professionally Planned. | Thoroughly Prepared. | Safely Executed.
HIMALAYAN OUTDOOR PROJECT
Education | Experience | Excellence | Expertise
