The Complete Guide for Ama Dablam Expedition
July 5, 2026
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The Everest – Lhotse Expedition is the ultimate high‑altitude mountaineering challenge. This ambitious journey offers the rare opportunity to summit two 8,000‑metre giants – Mount Everest (8,848.86m) and Lhotse (8,516m) – in a single season. Located in the Khumbu region, Everest and Lhotse share the same approach route via the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm. The route diverges at Camp IV on the South Col (7,910m); Everest continues along the exposed Southeast Ridge past the Hillary Step, while Lhotse ascends the steep, iconic Lhotse Face, a wall of glacial blue ice.
The expedition has a rich history. Everest was first conquered on May 29, 1953, by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Three years later, the Swiss expedition saw Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger make the first ascent of Lhotse on May 18, 1956, following the shared route to the Yellow Band before diverging. Since then, climbing both peaks in a single expedition has become a pinnacle achievement for elite mountaineers.
Proper acclimatisation is critical for this double summit push. Our strategy includes a summit climb of Lobuche East (6,119m) and multiple rotations through Camps I, II, and III before returning to Base Camp. Supplemental oxygen is provided above the high camps as climbers enter the Death Zone. Base Camp offers comfortable accommodation, daily weather updates, and robust communication, ensuring climbers are well‑supported throughout the 50‑day journey.
The Everest – Lhotse Expedition is not merely about reaching two summits; it is about testing the limits of human endurance and experiencing the profound beauty of the Himalaya. It is a once‑in‑a‑lifetime journey that demands exceptional preparation, but offers rewards that last forever.
Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
UNESCO sightseeing, checking up gear and briefing
Kathmandu to Ramechhap by Drive
From Ramechhap we take Lukla flight and trek to Phakding
We trek from Phakding to Namche
We trek from Namch to -Everest view point, khumchung and Khunde and return back to Namche (Acclimatization Day)
We trek from Namche to Pangboche
We trek from Pangboche to Dingboche
We trek from Dingboche to Lobuche High camp
We push for Lobuche-summit and back to Lobuche High Camp
We trek from Lobuche to Everest base camp.
From Base Camp we start our rotation (Base Camp - Camp I - Camp II - Camp III and back to Base Camp) - Duration 16 Days
From Base Camp we start our Summit Push (Camp I to Camp IV - Everest Summit than Lhotse Summit and Back to Base Camp) - Duration 17 Days
We trek from Base camp to Pangboche
We trek from Pangboche to Namche
We trek from Namche to Lukla
We take a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu via Ramechhap
We chill and go for shopping in Kathmandu and a farewell party
Fly back Home
Special Forces Leadership. Veteran Sherpa Experience. One Team. One Mission. Two Summits.
At Himalayan Outdoor Project, every expedition is approached as a mission. Founder and Expedition Planner Ex. Special Forces Maj. Rajiv Chand served for more than twenty years in the Nepali Army Special Forces, leading teams in complex and demanding environments where preparation, leadership, teamwork and risk management determined success. That same philosophy now guides every HOP expedition.
Our expeditions combine:
The leadership, planning, discipline and risk‑management systems of Special Forces operations with
The mountain wisdom, resilience and experience of Nepal’s most accomplished climbing Sherpas
This combination creates an expedition environment built on trust, professionalism, teamwork and safety essential ingredients for the immense physical and mental challenge of climbing Everest and Lhotse together.
PLAN. PREPARE. EXECUTE. RETURN SAFELY.
Successful Everest – Lhotse expeditions begin long before arriving at Base Camp and they end only when every climber is safely home.
PLAN
Every detail matters – Route | Logistics | Weather | Equipment | Contingencies | Emergency response. Nothing is left to chance. The unique divergence of Everest and Lhotse at the South Col requires precise planning for both summits.
PREPARE
Preparation creates confidence. Every climber receives guidance on: Physical training | Technical skills | Expedition systems | Equipment selection | Nutrition and hydration | Mental preparation for the double summit challenge.
EXECUTE
In the mountains conditions constantly change. Our team adapts, communicates and makes informed decisions based on: Weather | Route conditions | Team health | Individual performance | Safety considerations.
RETURN SAFELY
The first summit is only halfway. Our objective is simple: Bring every climber home safely. Safety First. Summit Second.
Most expeditions start in Kathmandu. Ours starts months before. Every HOP climber receives structured pre‑expedition support designed to build complete readiness for the unique demands of climbing two 8,000 – meter peaks.
Physical Preparation
Develop the endurance, strength and resilience required for fifty days in the Himalayas and multiple summit attempts. Training focuses on:
✓ Aerobic conditioning
✓ Muscular endurance
✓ Uphill movement
✓ Pack carrying
✓ Recovery
✓ Long‑duration training sessions
Technical Preparation
Develop confidence in essential mountaineering systems essential for both the Everest Southeast Ridge and the Lhotse Face. Training includes:
✓ Fixed rope travel
✓ Ascender and descender systems
✓ Crampon techniques
✓ Ladder crossing
✓ Glacier travel
✓ Ice axe techniques
✓ Rope management
Mental Preparation
Climbing Everest and Lhotse is as much a mental challenge as a physical one perhaps more. We prepare climbers to manage:
✓ Fatigue
✓ Uncertainty
✓ Fear
✓ Stress
✓ Team dynamics
✓ Long periods of discomfort
✓ The psychological demands of a second summit push
Our team provides detailed equipment consultation and gear recommendations for both peaks. Final equipment checks are conducted in Kathmandu.
VETERAN SHERPA TEAM
Our climbing Sherpas are not simply support staff. They are expedition partners mentors, teachers and leaders. Many members of our Sherpa team have multiple Everest and Lhotse summits and extensive experience on other 8,000‑metre peaks. Their knowledge of the mountain, weather, terrain, and high‑altitude decision‑making is invaluable, particularly when navigating the divergence point at the South Col.
Experience matters. That is why we work only with highly experienced, government‑certified climbing Sherpas who share our commitment to professionalism and safety and who have proven experience guiding climbers to both summits in a single season.
This expedition is designed for climbers who:
✓ Have previous high‑altitude experience
✓ Have climbed at least one technical peak above 6,500m
✓ Possess excellent physical fitness
✓ Have experience using fixed ropes
✓ Are comfortable in expedition environments
✓ Understand teamwork and expedition commitment
✓ Possess the patience and resilience for a 50‑day expedition
✓ Are prepared for the added challenge of a second 8,000‑metre summit
Strongly recommended:
Previous 7,000m climbing experience is strongly recommended
Glacier travel experience
Fixed rope experience
Crampon and ice axe skills
Strong endurance background
Recommended training period: Minimum 12 months
Prior experience on Everest or another 8,000‑metre peak is highly beneficial
Proper acclimatisation is one of the most important factors in successful Himalayan expeditions and it becomes even more critical when planning for two summits.
Our strategy includes:
✓ Gradual ascent through the Khumbu
✓ Active acclimatisation hikes
✓ Lobuche East summit climb (6,119m)
✓ Multiple acclimatisation rotations – Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Camp III
✓ Planned recovery periods
✓ Continuous health monitoring
Every climber acclimatises differently. The itinerary remains flexible to maximise safety and success for both Everest and Lhotse.
Everest Base Camp becomes home for several weeks.
Facilities include:
✓ Comfortable expedition tents
✓ Dining tent
✓ Kitchen tent
✓ Communication facilities
✓ Charging facilities
✓ Daily weather updates
✓ Team meetings and briefings
✓ Hygienic meals
✓ Rest and recovery facilities
✓ Medical support
Safety is the foundation of every HOP expedition and the foundation for any successful double summit attempt.
Our safety systems include:
✓ Experienced expedition leadership
✓ Veteran climbing Sherpas
✓ High Sherpa‑to‑climber ratio
✓ Daily health monitoring
✓ Supplemental oxygen systems
✓ Satellite communication
✓ Comprehensive medical kits
✓ Professional weather forecasting
✓ Emergency evacuation coordination
✓ Established contingency plans
Permits & Logistics
Everest climbing permit
Lhotse climbing permit
Lobuche Peak permit
Sagarmatha National Park permit
Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit
Expedition royalties and government taxes
Accommodation & Meals
Kathmandu hotel accommodation
Tea house accommodation during the trek
Full board meals during trek and expedition
Base Camp accommodation
Transportation
Airport transfers
Domestic flights (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu)
Expedition cargo transportation
Expedition Support
Expedition leader (Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa)
Veteran climbing Sherpas
Base Camp staff
Porters and yaks
Route fixing charges
Group climbing equipment
Training & Additional
Technical training
Ladder practice
Fixed rope refresher training
Expedition briefings
Welcome and farewell dinners
HOP expedition merchandise
Expedition certificate
International flights
Nepal visa fee
Personal climbing equipment
Personal travel insurance
Emergency evacuation insurance
Personal expenses
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Alcoholic beverages
Personal tips
Additional accommodation due to delays
Costs arising beyond our control
Comprehensive travel and high‑altitude rescue insurance is mandatory.
Coverage must include:
✓ High‑altitude helicopter rescue
✓ Medical treatment
✓ Emergency evacuation
✓ Repatriation
Mount Everest and Lhotse are extremely serious undertakings and climbing both in a single expedition compounds the challenge. Weather, route conditions, health issues and mountain conditions may require itinerary changes. Flexibility, patience, resilience and teamwork are absolutely essential.
The divergence at the South Col means that climbers must be prepared for two different types of terrain: the exposed ridge of Everest and the steep ice wall of Lhotse. Summit order may be adjusted based on conditions and team performance.
Our mission is simple:
Professionally Planned. | Thoroughly Prepared. | Safely Executed.
HIMALAYAN OUTDOOR PROJECT
Education | Experience | Excellence | Expertise
