The Complete Guide for Ama Dablam Expedition
July 5, 2026
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Mount Api, the highest peak in Far-Western Nepal at 7,132 metres, stands as the crown jewel of the Gurans Himal range. Located in the remote Darchula district near the borders of India and Tibet, Api is a little-known peak in a rarely visited part of the Himalayas. It rises dramatically over the low surrounding terrain, with its south face soaring 3,300 metres above its base.
The peak was first climbed on May 10, 1960, by a Japanese expedition team from the Doshisha Alpine Society, who successfully completed the Northwest Face route. Since then, only a handful of ascents have been recorded in 1978, 1996, and 2001. Due to its extreme remoteness and lack of commercial airstrips nearby, Api remains one of the most secluded and difficult-to-reach mountain areas in the entire country.
The journey begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Dhangadhi, followed by a jeep drive through the hot Terai plains to the trailhead at Makarigadh. The trek passes through traditional villages, terraced fields, and rhododendron forests before emerging into alpine grasslands. Base Camp is established at 3,900m near the sacred Kalidhunga Taal.
The climb itself is technically demanding, requiring advanced ice and rock climbing skills. The route involves steep snowfields, exposed ridges, and sections of technical climbing. For over two weeks, you and your Sherpa team will establish high camps, fix ropes, and push your limits on one of Nepal’s most isolated 7,000‑metre peaks.
The Api Expedition is not merely about reaching a summit; it is about venturing into one of Nepal’s last true wilderness areas. It is a once‑in‑a‑lifetime journey that demands exceptional preparation but offers rewards that last forever.
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m) & Transfer to Hotel
Sightseeing, Expedition Briefing & Official Preparations
Fly from Kathmandu to Dhangadhi (109m) & Drive to Gokuleshwor
Trek from Gokuleshwor to Chiureni (1,120m)
Trek from Chiureni to Makarighat (1,800m)
Trek from Makarighat to Seti (3,000m)
Trek from Seti to Bayaligad / Saheb Bazaar (3,400m)
Trek from Bayaligad to Simar (3,680m)
Trek from Simar to Dhauli Odar (3,860m)
Trek to Api Himal Base Camp (4,190m)
Climbing Period: Establish High Camps & Summit Push (7,132m)
Trek from Base Camp to Dhauli Odar
Trek to Makarighat
Trek to Gokuleshwor
Drive from Gokuleshwor to Dhangadhi & Fly to Kathmandu
We chill and go for shopping in Kathmandu and a farewell party
Fly back Home
Special Forces Leadership. Veteran Sherpa Experience. One Team. One Mission. One Summit.
At Himalayan Outdoor Project, every expedition is approached as a mission. Founder and Expedition Planner Ex. Special Forces Maj. Rajiv Chand served for more than twenty years in the Nepali Army Special Forces, leading teams in complex and demanding environments where preparation, leadership, teamwork and risk management determined success. That same philosophy now guides every HOP expedition.
Our expeditions combine:
The leadership, planning, discipline and risk‑management systems of Special Forces operations with
The mountain wisdom, resilience and experience of Nepal’s most accomplished climbing Sherpas
This combination creates an expedition environment built on trust, professionalism, teamwork and safety essential ingredients for the immense physical and mental challenge of climbing a remote and technical 7,000‑metre peak.
PLAN. PREPARE. EXECUTE. RETURN SAFELY.
Successful Api expeditions begin long before arriving at Base Camp and they end only when every climber is safely home.
PLAN
Every detail matters – Route | Logistics | Weather | Equipment | Contingencies | Emergency response. Nothing is left to chance. The remoteness of Api and the technical demands of the Northwest Face require precise planning and route management.
PREPARE
Preparation creates confidence. Every climber receives guidance on: Physical training | Technical skills | Expedition systems | Equipment selection | Nutrition and hydration | Mental preparation for the 7,000‑metre challenge.
EXECUTE
In the mountains conditions constantly change. Our team adapts, communicates and makes informed decisions based on: Weather | Route conditions | Team health | Individual performance | Safety considerations.
RETURN SAFELY
The summit is only halfway. Our objective is simple: Bring every climber home safely. Safety First. Summit Second.
Most expeditions start in Kathmandu. Ours starts months before.
Physical Preparation
Develop the endurance, strength, and resilience required for thirty‑five days in the Himalayas and the demands of a technical 7,000‑metre summit.
Technical Preparation
Build confidence in fixed rope travel, ascender systems, crampon techniques, ladder crossing, glacier travel, and ice axe skills. Api is considered a technically demanding mountain, requiring advanced ice and rock climbing skills.
Mental Preparation
Manage fatigue, uncertainty, fear, stress, team dynamics, and the psychological demands of high‑altitude climbing on exposed ridges in one of Nepal’s most remote regions.
Our team provides detailed equipment consultation and gear recommendations. Final equipment checks are conducted in Kathmandu.
Our climbing Sherpas are not simply support staff.
They are expedition partners. | Mentors. | Teachers. | Leaders.
Many members of our Sherpa team have extensive experience on 7,000‑metre and 8,000‑metre peaks. Their knowledge of the mountain, weather, terrain, and high‑altitude decision‑making is invaluable. Experience matters.
That is why we work only with highly experienced, government‑certified climbing Sherpas who share our commitment to professionalism and safety.
This expedition is designed for climbers who:
✓ Have previous high‑altitude experience
✓ Have climbed at least one technical peak above 6,000m
✓ Possess excellent physical fitness
✓ Have experience using fixed ropes
✓ Are comfortable in expedition environments
✓ Understand teamwork and expedition commitment
✓ Possess the patience and resilience for a 35‑day expedition
✓ Are prepared for the technical challenges of a remote 7,000‑metre peak
Previous 6,000m+ climbing experience is strongly recommended
Glacier travel experience
Fixed rope experience
Crampon and ice axe skills
Strong endurance background
Recommended training period: Minimum 12 months
Proper acclimatisation is one of the most important factors in successful Himalayan expeditions.
Our strategy includes:
✓ Gradual ascent through the trekking route from Makarigadh to Base Camp
✓ Active acclimatisation hikes around Base Camp and Kalidhunga
✓ Multiple acclimatisation rotations – Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Camp III
✓ Planned recovery periods
✓ Continuous health monitoring
Every climber acclimatises differently. The itinerary remains flexible to maximise safety and success.
Api Base Camp (3,900m), nestled in the alpine grasslands near Kalidhunga Taal, becomes home for several weeks.
Facilities include:
✓ Comfortable expedition tents
✓ Dining tent
✓ Kitchen tent
✓ Communication facilities (satellite)
✓ Charging facilities
✓ Daily weather updates
✓ Team meetings and briefings
✓ Hygienic meals
✓ Rest and recovery facilities
✓ Medical support
✓ Traditional Puja ceremony for good luck and safe passage
Safety is the foundation of every HOP expedition.
Our safety systems include:
✓ Experienced expedition leadership
✓ Veteran climbing Sherpas
✓ High Sherpa‑to‑climber ratio
✓ Daily health monitoring
✓ Supplemental oxygen systems
✓ Satellite communication
✓ Comprehensive medical kits
✓ Professional weather forecasting
✓ Emergency evacuation coordination
✓ Established contingency plans
Permits & Logistics
Api Peak Expedition Permit
Api Nampa Conservation Area permit
Darchula Rural Municipality permit
Garbage deposit
Expedition royalties and government taxes
Accommodation & Meals
Kathmandu hotel accommodation
Tea house accommodation during trek
Full board meals during trek and expedition
Base Camp accommodation
Transportation
Airport transfers
Domestic flights (Kathmandu – Dhangadhi – Kathmandu)
Private vehicle (Dhangadhi – Makarigadh – Dhangadhi)
Expedition cargo transportation
Expedition Support
Expedition leader (Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa)
Veteran climbing Sherpas
Base Camp staff
Porters
Route fixing charges
Group climbing equipment
Training & Additional
Technical and ladder training
Expedition briefings
Welcome and farewell dinners
HOP expedition merchandise
Expedition certificate
International flights
Nepal visa fee
Personal climbing equipment
Personal travel insurance
Emergency evacuation insurance
Personal expenses
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Alcoholic beverages
Personal tips
Additional accommodation due to delays
Costs arising beyond our control
Comprehensive travel and high‑altitude rescue insurance is mandatory.
Coverage must include:
✓ High‑altitude helicopter rescue
✓ Medical treatment
✓ Emergency evacuation
✓ Repatriation
Climbing Api Peak is a serious technical undertaking in one of Nepal’s most remote regions. Weather, route conditions, and health issues may require itinerary changes. Flexibility, patience, resilience, and teamwork are essential.
Api is considered a technically demanding mountain, requiring advanced ice and rock climbing skills. The route involves steep snowfields, exposed ridges, and technical sections. Climbers must be proficient with fixed ropes, crampons, and ice axes.
The remoteness of Api adds an additional layer of challenge. Logistics are more complex, and emergency response times are longer than in the more frequented regions of Nepal. This expedition is for mountaineers seeking a true wilderness experience.
Our mission is simple:
Professionally Planned. | Thoroughly Prepared. | Safely Executed.
HIMALAYAN OUTDOOR PROJECT
Education | Experience | Excellence | Expertise
